Arching over the Golden Horn (Halic) and linking 'old' and 'new' istanbul, Galata Bridge (Galata K6prvsv) spans two worlds.

At the northern end of the bridge, you can buy offbeat labels in cubbyhole boutiques in the backstreets of lstiklal Caddesi and head to nearby Nisantasi for the latest season's offerings from Turkey's fashion-world darlings. Stylish restaurants with city views that will make your jaw drop serve inspired takes on old Turkish favourites, and there are more bars than you could hope to prop yourself at in a lifetime. Indeed, good nights out are obligatory here, with Beyoglu a byword for creative, spirited music with a unique East-West twist. On the Bosphorus, the lstanbul Modern showcases Turkey's contemporary art to the world, while Beyoglu houses many teeny galleries.

...

WHAT WILL YOUR iSTAEIBUL ENCOUNTER BE？

...crossing your legs and admiring the tilework in the Topkapl Palace Circumcision Room (p44)

...shots of raki(aniseed brandy)while carousing with wandering musicians on Nevizade Sokak (p17)

...warm stone,soft suds and the masseur's firm hands in the hamam (p19)

...zigzagging between continents on a Bosphorus cruise(p113)

...cents of saffron, caviar and O.ttoman aphrod siacs in the Spice Bazaar (p61)

...savouring smooth apple-scented tobacco in a nargileh(water pipe) - but not inhaling (p20)

THE AUTHOR

THIS IS iSTANBUL

HIGHLIGHTS

iSTANBUL DIARY

ITINERARIES

NEIGHBOURHOODS

>SULTANHAHMET & AROUND

>BAZAAR DISTRICT

>BEYOGLU & AROUND

>WESTERN DISTRICTS

BOSPHORUS CRUISE

SNAPSHOTS

BACKGROUND

DIRECTORY

INDEX