What’s past can be present: in this worldwide perspective on pre–, during, and post–World War II fashions, curator Walford provides a fascinating narrative—all populated by four-color and black-and-white illustrations, photographs, and ads—on what women could and did wear some 60 to 70 years ago. Every nation participates; the infamous 1933 German boycott of Jewish businesses (retail, in particular) begins the lengthy story. Parisians’ refusal to cede the title of world couturier leads to the real postwar charge of collaboration against such brand-name luminaries as Jacques Fath and Marcel Boussac. American ingenuity with limited resources and materials results in California casual design—and a country intent on winning the war with whatever was needed.

This is the definitive book on fashion in the 1940s- from French style under the occupation and the 'make do and mend' approach to creatively solving clothing shortages, through issues of dress,patriotism and propaganda and the development of faux fabrics and rationing, to the rise of American fashion houses and the New Look of the post-war period.

Some 250 illustrations reveal the wide range of fashions and styles that emerged throughout the SecondWorldWar and throughout the world,in Europe, North America, Australasia and Japan.During this period of international conflict, fashion managed to express ideals of beauty, femininity and luxury even though patriotic and practical considerations came first.Jonathan Walford details how fashion was considered not a frivolity but an aesthetic expression of circumstances.While Fascist states tried to create 'national' styles before the war began, by 1940 the pursuit of beauty was promoted on both sides of the conflict as a patriotic duty.

From pre-war to post-war, international attitudes emerge from period advertisements,images of real clothes, and first-hand accounts from contemporary publications.The result is a glorious celebration of everything from practical and smart-looking attire for air raids (hooded capes with large pockets, zipper-fronted jumpsuits and turbans) to street and anti-fashion, and the creation of Christian Dior's New Look collection in 1947.

INTRODUCTION

DRESSING THE NATION

KANGAROO POCKETSAND SIREN SUITS

RATIONING, UTILITY, AND AUSTERITY

The British way to winning the war in fashion

INDEPENDENCE AND LIMITATIONS

BEAUTY ON DUTY

MAKING DO

PACIFIC FRONTS

OCCUPATION COUTURE

PIECES OF RESISTANCE

FASHION AMONG THE RUINS

NEW LOOKS

Acknowledgments

Bibliography

Index