This is the fabric and textile directory that dressmakers and fashion designers have been waiting for. This book is like having your own personal shopper able to recommend fabrics to suit the effects you want to achieve, show you how the fabric will perform, and recommend ways of using it. Each fabric in the directory is accompanied by photographs presented in a way that makes the properties of the fabric come alive for the viewer, allowing you to really understand how a fabric might behave. "The Fashion Designers Textile Directory" is sure to become essential reading for every designer wanting to communicate their final vision through the appropriate use of fabric.

Author's foreword

About this book

SECTION ONE:Responsible design

The future of fabric production

SECTION TWO:The language of textiles

The supply chain

Fabric orientation

Fibre

Yarn

Fabrics

Adding colour

Finishing

Garment care

SECTION THREE:The textile directory

Introduction to the directory

Chapter one: Structure

Lawn

Calico, printed and dyed

High-density fabrics

Broadcloth

Poplin

Checks and plaids

Oxford

Surface shine: cire and chintz

Puckered surface: seersucker and plisse

Dobby weaves

Taffeta

Faille and bengaline

Shantung

Sateen

Bridal satin

Flannel

Flannelette

Linen

Sheeting

Calico, unbleached

Canvas

Homespun

Hopsacking

Denim

Gabardine

Chino

Serge

Cavalry twill

Ripstop

Ottoman

Dobby weaves for suiting

Tweeds

Jacquard weaves

Velveteen

Corduroy

Brushed fabrics

Fabrics from fibre

Melton

Double knits

Coated fabrics

Microporous laminated fabrics

Film fabric

Leather

Suede leather

Faux leather and suede

Bonded and fused fabrics

Supporting structure

Interlinings for structure

Chapter two: Fluidity

Chiffon

Georgette

Voile

Gauze

Lining

Satin

Crepe de Chine

Crinkled fabric

Challis

Surah

Jersey

Interlock

Matte jersey

Fine-gauge jumper knits

Pointelle knits

Mesh

Tricot

Traditional lace

Mass-market lace

Lame

Textured knits

Designed knit surfaces

Satin crepe

Textured crepe suiting

Smooth-surface crepe

Tricot for athletics

French towelling

Polar fleece

Velour

Velvet

Medium-weight jumper knits

Heavyweight jumper knits

Chapter three: Ornamentation

Contrast fabric shapes

Contrasting fabric:'creating lines and

 outlines with fabric

Functional tapes

Decorative ribbon: satin and velvet

Decorative ribbon: grosgrain and taffeta

Decorative ribbon: Jacquard

Decorative ribbon: dobby design

Passementerie trim

Fringe

Narrow novelty trims

Narrow closure trims

Lace edging and appliques

Embroidery

Embroidery threads

All-over embroidered fabrics

Garment-specific embroidery

Embroidered denim

Chapter four: Expansion

Netting

Organza

Organdy

Crinoline

Buckram

The concept of pleating

Pleated silk fibre fabrics

Pleated cotton fibre fabrics

Polyester plain-weave pleated fabrics

Crepe and satin crepe pleated fabrics

Stitched pleating

Shirring

Boucle

Chenille

Towelling

The concept of quilting

Minimum-loft quilting

Medium-loft quilting

High-loft quilting

Fur in apparel

Repurposed fur

Commonly used faux fur

Exotic faux fur

Chapter five: Compression

Compression with rigid fabrics

Ribbed knits

Elastic ribbed knit banding

Comfort stretch: top weights

Comfort stretch: casual woven fabrics

Comfort stretch: stretch denim

Comfort stretch: stretch suiting

Comfort stretch: double knits

Power stretch: athletic knits

Power stretch: underwear knits

Power stretch: elastic power mesh

Power stretch: narrow elastic bands

SECTION FOUR:

The charts

Introduction to the charts

Balanced plain weave

Unbalanced plain weave

Textured weave/Jacquard weave

Pile weave/Basketweave

Twill weave

Satin weave

Weft knit

Weft pile knit/Warp knitting

Warp pile knit/Jacquard warp knit

Fibre to fabric/Lace

Glossary

Resources

Index

Credits and acknowledgments